My intent was to explore Belize City, the interior, and Guatemala- but after researching I realized that those delightful palm lined beaches were indeed on Caye Caulker. Fast forward from the awesome layover in Miami, the wild terrestrial and aquatic taxis, and a golf cart across dirt roads, we had arrived.

The unpaved streets of Caye Caulker loaded with tourists.

Sitting a bit off the coast of Belize, its a rather small place- you can walk across its entirety in about 10 minutes. (Although mind that I walk fast) Because of its semi-isolation, it really has retained much of its charm but also has brought an influx of eager tourists (Here I use tourists with a negative connotation, more on that later). While having retained its sandy unpaved streets and rustic nature, it teeters on a threshold of becoming over developed with new hotel and commercial experiences.

The island of Caye Caulker, Belize from the surf.
A boy rides his bike through the streets of Caye Caulker, Belize.

 

A hand-painted sign selling local coconuts.

 

A local girl rides by the island delivery system.

 

A local man chops fuel wood for the evening’s dinner roast.

There is the ideal tropical paradise side of the island, and those who actually have to live there- which creates tension. The tourists are something they need for economic prosperity, but lets be honest, it can be hard when you have a certain kind of entitlement cramming your island, especially a kind that gets to come, relax, and leave- and not have to deal with the reality of living there day to day.

Nurse sharks circle in the Belize Barrier Reef.

Continuing the disparity is the Belize Barrier Reef, a short boat ride from shore that is absolutely teeming with life, yet is bordered with pockets of devastation from recent hurricane activity alongside the effects of global warming and ocean acidification. It is heartbreaking to be standing in a feeding frenzy of nurse sharks, only to see moments later the shattered remains of a once thriving coral ecosystem.

Belizeans celebrate Garifuna Settlement Day with song and dance on the island of Caye Caulker.

Back on land, the island has a beautiful hybrid of Native Mayans, Afro-Caribbeans and an assortment from expats from around the globe. These converging cultures have created a unique experience, which manifests beautifully across the island. (Especially gastronomically) Being there in November, people on the island and across the Belizean mainland were celebrating Garifuna Settlement Day, which brought out musical celebrations and dancing in honor of their African roots.

A roasted pig ready for a traditional dinner on the island of Caye Caulker, Belize.

Despite a palpable tension because of its complicated history and contemporary needs, Caye Caulker is an absurdly gorgeous place. Reveling in its authentic culture and understanding the importance of our effects on the world, I think, is one of the best experiences.

Early morning blue bathes the island of Caye Caulker.

 

 

-m